Living in Florence: The Complete Expat Guide for 2026

Florence captures something no other city quite manages: the feeling of living inside a masterpiece. The birthplace of the Renaissance, this compact Tuscan capital of 362,000 residents offers expats a lifestyle that blends extraordinary beauty, world-class food and wine, and a surprisingly manageable scale. Nearly 100,000 expats have already made this choice, creating a vibrant international community within ancient walls.

The city ranks as one of Europe's most walkable urban centers, with the historic core easily navigable on foot. Florence scores well on quality of life indexes while offering something harder to quantify — daily immersion in art, architecture, and culinary traditions that have shaped Western civilization for 500 years.

This guide covers everything you need before relocating: realistic costs, neighborhood breakdowns, visa pathways, and the practical details that will determine whether Florence becomes your home or remains a beautiful memory.

Why Expats Choose Florence

Florence attracts expats seeking depth over convenience, beauty over efficiency. If you want sleek modernity and frictionless bureaucracy, look elsewhere. If you want to live surrounded by Brunelleschi's dome, Botticelli's masterworks, and some of the finest food and wine on Earth, Florence delivers daily.

Renaissance heritage defines the experience. This isn't a city with historic buildings — it IS a historic building. The UNESCO-listed Historic Centre contains the Uffizi, Palazzo Pitti, Santa Croce, and the Duomo within walking distance. The Florentine dialect formed the foundation of modern Italian. Dante, Machiavelli, Michelangelo, and Leonardo all called this city home.

Compact scale makes Florence remarkably livable. The historic center spans roughly 5 square kilometers, meaning most daily destinations fall within a 15-20 minute walk. Unlike Rome or Milan, Florence feels navigable from day one.

Food and wine culture reaches its pinnacle in Tuscany. Florence sits at the center of wine regions producing Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The cuisine — bistecca alla fiorentina, ribollita, pappardelle al cinghiale — emphasizes quality ingredients over complexity.

International community of approximately 100,000 expats ensures you'll find English-speaking doctors, established networking events, and others navigating similar challenges. The InterNations Florence chapter alone has over 11,000 members with 20+ monthly events.

Strategic location puts Tuscan countryside, coastal beaches, and major Italian cities within easy reach. Siena, Pisa, and Lucca make perfect day trips. High-speed trains reach Rome in just over an hour and Milan in under two hours.

Florence Neighborhoods: Where to Live

Choosing the right neighborhood significantly impacts your Florence experience. The city divides naturally by the Arno River, with distinct character on each side. Tourist density varies dramatically — some streets feel like theme parks while others remain genuinely local.

Neighborhood Comparison

• Centro Storico: €1,200-1,800/month rent, tourist-heavy and iconic, best for short stays
• Oltrarno: €900-1,400/month rent, artisan and authentic, best for creatives and long-term expats
• Santa Croce: €1,000-1,500/month rent, leather markets with local feel, best for young professionals
• San Lorenzo: €800-1,200/month rent, market district and busy, best for budget central living
• Campo di Marte: €700-1,100/month rent, residential with sports facilities, best for families
• Novoli: €600-1,000/month rent, university area and modern, best for students and budget expats

Centro Storico: The Heart of Florence

The historic center encompasses the Duomo, Piazza della Signoria, Ponte Vecchio, and most major attractions. Living here means waking up to views of Brunelleschi's dome and walking past Renaissance masterpieces daily.

Pros: Unmatched beauty, walkability to everything, no transport needed
Cons: Tourist crowds year-round, noise, highest prices, limited parking
Rent: €1,200-1,800 for a one-bedroom apartment

Centro Storico suits those prioritizing location over value, particularly for shorter stays of 6-12 months. Long-term residents often find the tourist density exhausting.

Oltrarno: The Authentic Side

Cross the Ponte Vecchio and enter a different Florence. Oltrarno ("beyond the Arno") retains artisan workshops, local trattorias, and neighborhood character that tourism hasn't erased. Piazza Santo Spirito serves as the social center, surrounded by bars and restaurants favored by locals.

Pros: Authentic atmosphere, artisan community, Palazzo Pitti and Boboli Gardens, excellent food scene
Cons: Hillier terrain, fewer amenities, some areas feel isolated at night
Rent: €900-1,400 for a one-bedroom apartment

Oltrarno represents the sweet spot for many expats — close enough to walk everywhere, authentic enough to feel like real Italy.

Santa Croce: The Local Quarter

Named for the magnificent Basilica of Santa Croce (burial place of Michelangelo, Galileo, and Machiavelli), this neighborhood offers a more residential feel while remaining central. The leather market stretches through the area, and excellent restaurants line the side streets.

Pros: Central location, strong local character, great food scene, Sant'Ambrogio market
Cons: Leather market crowds during day, some touristy pockets
Rent: €1,000-1,500 for a one-bedroom apartment

San Lorenzo: The Market District

San Lorenzo centers on the famous leather market and Mercato Centrale, the city's premier food hall. The area bustles with commerce, making it lively but sometimes overwhelming.

Pros: Central location, market access, train station proximity, more affordable than Centro Storico
Cons: Market crowds, tourist-focused commerce, can feel hectic
Rent: €800-1,200 for a one-bedroom apartment

Campo di Marte: The Residential Choice

Northeast of the center, Campo di Marte offers something rare in Florence: space. Named for the military parade ground (now a park), the neighborhood surrounds the Stadio Artemio Franchi (Fiorentina's football stadium).

Pros: Residential calm, green space, family-friendly, significantly lower rents, good schools nearby
Cons: 20-30 minute walk to center, fewer tourist amenities, less "romantic" feel
Rent: €700-1,100 for a one-bedroom apartment

Novoli: The University District

Florence's university campus (Polo Universitario di Novoli) anchors this northwestern neighborhood. Modern development, student housing, and practical amenities contrast with the historic center's ancient streets.

Pros: Lowest central rents, university amenities, modern apartments, tramway access
Cons: Limited character, far from historic center, student party atmosphere in some areas
Rent: €600-1,000 for a one-bedroom apartment

Cost of Living in Florence

Florence costs more than southern Italian cities but less than Milan. Your monthly budget depends primarily on housing choices and dining habits — the gap between cooking at home with market produce and eating out regularly proves substantial.

Budget Breakdown by Lifestyle

Budget Lifestyle: €1,500-2,000/month

• Rent: €600-800 (Campo di Marte, Novoli, or shared apartment)
• Utilities: €100-150
• Groceries: €250-350 (markets, cooking at home)
• Transport: €40 (bus/tram pass)
• Dining out: €100-150 (occasional trattorias)
• Entertainment: €80-120
• Miscellaneous: €80-130

Mid-Range Lifestyle: €2,500-3,500/month

• Rent: €1,000-1,400 (Oltrarno, Santa Croce)
• Utilities: €120-180
• Groceries: €300-400
• Transport: €50-80 (pass + occasional taxi)
• Dining out: €250-400
• Wine/aperitivo: €100-150
• Entertainment: €150-200
• Healthcare: €80-120
• Miscellaneous: €150-200

Comfortable Lifestyle: €3,800-4,800/month

• Rent: €1,400-1,800 (Centro Storico, premium Oltrarno)
• Utilities: €150-200
• Groceries: €350-450
• Transport: €100-150 (taxi, occasional car rental)
• Dining out: €500-700
• Wine/experiences: €200-300
• Entertainment: €250-350
• Healthcare: €100-150
• Gym/wellness: €80-120
• Miscellaneous: €200-280

Key Cost Factors

Rent constitutes your largest expense and varies dramatically by neighborhood. Prices increased 15-20% from 2023-2025, driven partly by Airbnb conversion reducing long-term rental supply.

Utilities run €100-200 monthly for electricity, gas, water, and internet. Summer air conditioning and winter heating drive peak costs. Many historic buildings lack modern insulation.

Groceries offer excellent value at local markets. Sant'Ambrogio Market (Santa Croce), Mercato Centrale (San Lorenzo), and neighborhood shops provide fresh produce at reasonable prices. Budget €250-400 monthly.

Dining out ranges widely. Tavola calda lunches cost €8-12. Traditional trattoria dinners run €25-40 per person with wine. Upscale restaurants charge €60-100+.

Specific Costs

• Cappuccino at bar: €1.20-1.50
• Espresso at bar: €1.00-1.30
• Glass of Chianti: €4-7
• Beer (0.5L) at bar: €5-7
• Trattoria dinner (per person): €25-40
• Monthly groceries (cooking): €250-400
• Monthly ATAF pass: €35-40
• Single bus ticket: €1.70
• Gym membership: €40-80/month
• 1BR apartment (center): €1,000-1,500/month
• 1BR apartment (outside center): €700-1,100/month

Getting Around Florence

Florence's compact size makes it one of Europe's most walkable cities. The historic center spans roughly 2km across — you can walk from Santa Maria Novella station to Santa Croce in 15 minutes.

Walking

Walking handles 80%+ of daily transport for most central residents. The flat terrain along the Arno makes walking easy, though Oltrarno and San Miniato involve hills. Cobblestones require sensible footwear.

ATAF Buses and Trams

ATAF/Linea operates buses and trams throughout the metropolitan area. Small electric buses navigate narrow historic streets where full-size vehicles can't pass.

Fares:

• Single ticket: €1.70 (valid 90 minutes)
• 24-hour pass: €5.00
• Monthly pass: €35-40
• 10-trip card: €14.00

Purchase tickets at tabacchi (tobacco shops), newsstands, or the ATAF app before boarding. Validate tickets on board — inspectors issue €50+ fines for unvalidated tickets.

ZTL (Zona Traffico Limitato)

Florence's restricted traffic zone covers most of the historic center. Non-resident vehicles entering during restricted hours trigger automatic fines via camera — typically €80-100 per violation.

If you're driving to Florence, park outside the ZTL (Fortezza da Basso, Campo di Marte station) and walk or take transit in.

Car Ownership

Most expats living centrally don't need cars. Parking proves difficult and expensive, ZTL restrictions complicate city driving, and public transport plus walking handles daily needs.

Work and Digital Nomads

Florence's job market remains challenging for non-Italian speakers, but the city has embraced remote work culture, creating infrastructure for digital nomads and location-independent professionals.

Remote Work Infrastructure

Coworking spaces have proliferated across Florence:

• SmartHub — Modern facilities, fast internet, central location
• Impact Hub Firenze — Community-focused, events, near station
• Studio72R — Creative space, artisan atmosphere
• Multiverso — Budget-friendly, student-oriented

Expect €150-350/month for dedicated desk access, €80-150 for flexible plans.

Internet averages 18-25 Mbps across the city, with fiber connections reaching 100+ Mbps in modern buildings. Always test internet before signing a lease.

Italy's Digital Nomad Visa

Italy launched its Digital Nomad Visa in 2024, targeting remote workers employed by non-Italian companies.

Requirements:

• Minimum annual income: €28,000+ (documented)
• Remote employment with non-Italian entity
• Health insurance meeting Italian standards
• Proof of accommodation in Italy
• Clean criminal record
• Relevant qualifications/experience

Duration: 12 months, renewable

Healthcare in Tuscany

Italy operates a universal healthcare system (Servizio Sanitario Nazionale/SSN) ranked among Europe's best. Tuscany's regional system maintains high standards.

Public Healthcare (SSN)

EU citizens access public healthcare via the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) for temporary stays or by registering with SSN for longer residence.

Non-EU legal residents can access SSN after:

1. Obtaining a codice fiscale (Italian tax code)
2. Registering with the local ASL (Azienda Sanitaria Locale)
3. Choosing a medico di base (general practitioner)

Private Healthcare

Many expats combine SSN registration with private healthcare for faster specialist access and English-speaking doctors. Private consultation costs: €80-150 for specialists, €50-80 for GPs. Private health insurance runs €100-300/month.

Pharmacies

Italian pharmacies (farmacie) dispense many medications without prescription that would require one elsewhere. Pharmacists often speak English and provide basic medical advice. Look for the green cross sign.

Education and Family Life

Florence offers several international schooling options for expat families.

International Schools

• International School of Florence (ISF) — IB curriculum, ages 3-18, €13,000-20,000/year
• The British Institute of Florence — Language courses, cultural programs
• St. Michael's International School — British curriculum, ages 2-14, €8,000-15,000/year
• American International School in Florence — American curriculum, ages 3-18

Italian Public Schools

Expat children can attend Italian public schools (free), though instruction is entirely in Italian. This path suits families planning long-term residence who want full cultural integration.

Climate and Weather

Florence's climate shapes daily life more dramatically than many expats expect. The city experiences genuine seasons, with summer heat that surprises those expecting gentle Mediterranean warmth.

Seasonal Breakdown

Spring (March-May): Ideal conditions. Temperatures 15-25°C, occasional rain, blooming countryside.

Summer (June-August): Hot and often brutal. Average highs reach 32-35°C, with heatwaves pushing past 40°C. Only 7% of buildings have air conditioning.

Autumn (September-November): Pleasant temperatures (12-25°C), harvest season, fewer tourists. Wine and food festivals throughout Tuscany.

Winter (December-February): Mild but damp. Temperatures 5-12°C, occasional frost, rare snow.

Food and Wine Culture

Living in Florence means immersion in one of the world's great culinary traditions. Tuscan cuisine emphasizes quality ingredients prepared simply.

Tuscan Cuisine Essentials

• Bistecca alla fiorentina — Thick-cut T-bone steak from Chianina cattle, grilled rare. Expect €45-70+ per steak.
• Ribollita — "Reboiled" bread soup with cannellini beans and cavolo nero.
• Pappa al pomodoro — Thick tomato and bread soup.
• Lampredotto — Tripe sandwich from street carts. Florence's signature street food.
• Schiacciata — Florentine flatbread, often split and filled.
• Cantucci con Vin Santo — Almond biscotti dipped in sweet dessert wine.

Wine Culture

Tuscany produces some of Italy's finest wines:

• Chianti Classico — The iconic Tuscan red. €8-100+ per bottle.
• Brunello di Montalcino — Prestigious Sangiovese, aged minimum 5 years. €40-500+.
• Vino Nobile di Montepulciano — Excellent value compared to Brunello.
• Vernaccia di San Gimignano — Crisp white wine for summer.
• Vin Santo — Sweet dessert wine with cantucci.

Markets and Shopping

• Mercato Centrale (San Lorenzo) — Two-floor market with produce and upstairs food court.
• Sant'Ambrogio Market — The local favorite. Less tourist traffic, excellent produce.
• Mercato di Santo Spirito — Small neighborhood market in Oltrarno. Organic focus.

Day Trips from Florence

Florence's central Tuscan location enables easy exploration of the surrounding region.

Train Accessible

• Siena (1.5 hours, €10) — Medieval rival to Florence with stunning Piazza del Campo.
• Pisa (1 hour, €9) — Beyond the leaning tower, a pleasant university town.
• Lucca (1.5 hours, €8) — Perfectly preserved Renaissance walls, excellent cycling.
• Bologna (35 minutes high-speed, €25-50) — Italy's food capital.
• Rome (1.5 hours high-speed, €45-100) — The eternal city.

Car Required

• Chianti wine country — Rolling hills, vineyards, medieval villages.
• San Gimignano — Manhattan of the Middle Ages with 14 surviving towers.
• Val d'Orcia — UNESCO-listed landscape of cypress-lined roads.
• Cinque Terre (2.5 hours) — Five colorful fishing villages on the Ligurian coast.

Practical Tips for Living in Florence

Bureaucracy Survival

1. Get your codice fiscale immediately — Required for everything
2. Open an Italian bank account — Most landlords require it
3. Allow extra time — Appointments run late, paperwork gets lost
4. Learn basic Italian — Dramatically improves bureaucratic encounters
5. Bring multiple copies — Every document, every appointment
6. Stay calm — Frustration is counterproductive

Housing Tips

• Start searching early — Good apartments move quickly
• Verify internet — Test speeds before signing
• Check for AC — Don't assume; most don't have it
• Understand included utilities
• Expect deposits — Typically 2-3 months rent upfront
• Use reputable agencies — Immobiliare.it is the main listing site

Language

While tourist Florence functions in English, daily life improves dramatically with Italian. Language schools abound (Scuola Leonardo da Vinci, Istituto Il David, Parola School). Private tutors charge €20-40/hour.

Safety

Florence is generally very safe. Violent crime is rare. Watch for pickpockets in tourist areas and typical urban scams.

Cultural Adaptation

• Expect closures — Many businesses close Sunday, Monday morning, and August
• Embrace slowness — Service isn't slow by Italian standards
• Dress matters — Florentines take appearance seriously
• Learn coffee rules — Cappuccino is breakfast-only
• Greet shopkeepers — "Buongiorno" when entering

Frequently Asked Questions

How much money do I need to live comfortably in Florence?

Budget €2,500-3,500/month for a comfortable mid-range lifestyle including rent, food, transport, and entertainment. Budget expats can manage on €1,500-2,000 with careful spending, while comfortable living requires €3,800-4,800+.

Is Florence safe for expats?

Yes. Florence is one of Italy's safest cities. Violent crime is extremely rare. The main concerns are pickpocketing in tourist areas and typical urban precautions.

Do I need to speak Italian to live in Florence?

You can survive with English in tourist Florence, but quality of life improves dramatically with Italian. Bureaucracy, healthcare, apartment hunting, and local relationships all become easier. Plan to learn.

Can I work remotely in Florence?

Yes. Italy's 2024 Digital Nomad Visa creates a legal pathway for remote workers earning €28,000+ annually from non-Italian employers. Coworking spaces and café culture support remote work.

What's the best neighborhood for expats?

Oltrarno offers the best balance of central location, authentic character, and value for long-term expats. Santa Croce suits those wanting more central convenience. Campo di Marte works for families.

How hot does Florence get in summer?

Very hot. Average summer highs reach 32-35°C, with heatwaves pushing past 40°C. Only 7% of buildings have air conditioning.

Is Florence good for families?

Yes, with caveats. International schools provide quality education (€10,000-20,000/year). The city is safe and walkable. However, apartments tend smaller, and summer heat challenges families.

How do I find an apartment in Florence?

Start with Immobiliare.it. Agencies charge fees but provide security. Expect 2-3 months deposit plus first month rent upfront. Begin searching 1-2 months before your move date.

What visa do I need to live in Florence?

EU/EEA citizens can live and work freely. Non-EU citizens need: Digital Nomad Visa (€28,000+ remote income), Elective Residence Visa (€31,000+ passive income), Student Visa, Work Visa (employer sponsorship), or Family Visa.

Is Florence crowded with tourists?

Yes, particularly the historic center from March through October. Living slightly outside the main circuit (Oltrarno, Santa Croce edges, Campo di Marte) helps escape the worst crowds.

Florence rewards those who commit. The bureaucratic challenges, summer heat, and tourist crowds filter out casual visitors, leaving behind a community of people genuinely engaged with this extraordinary city. If you're drawn to Renaissance beauty, serious food and wine culture, and a scale that allows genuine neighborhood life, Florence might be your place. The masterpiece is still alive — and it's accepting new residents.